|
Post by Overoptimistix on Oct 20, 2009 10:13:59 GMT
I am just pulling my finger out and have started (again) re building 568 which I have had for many years (mainly in my front garden). The work remaining is re-decking fore-deck and transom tank.
The gunwale's have seen better days, but I'm not sure where I can get a 20' (approx) section to do this.
Can people suggest any sensible modifications that I could consider?
Cosmetically, I remember that many Moths used to have a handle on the fore-deck, but they seem to have gone out of fashion.
Also, I see that there is now a mini-Moth sail that may be good for my son if he wants to sail more, but I can't see it listed on any of the sail-makers websites. Does it have an official PN?
thanks
dan
|
|
|
Post by casablanca on Oct 20, 2009 10:20:41 GMT
Handle's on foredecks of moth really takes me back, my brother own 553 until he sold it in a very sorry state back in the '80's. Your boat must be of the same sort of era, has it got the lovely rolled decks? Good luck with the re-build
|
|
|
Post by scruff871 on Oct 20, 2009 11:24:59 GMT
Dan Use 3 shorter pieces spliced together. The first section wrapped around the Foredeck/Bow approximately back to the shroud plates and then a piece each side spliced/jointed and then back to the Transom . As for the smaller sail for your Son.... Mini-Moth sails are fine but we have found that using a Classic sail work better and are easier to use.A Firefly mainsail is about the same size if you can get hold of one.Alternatively cut down an old sail. Thinks that Jeckells will make a Mini-Moth or Classic sail... if you need any help in getting hold of something suitable please send an e-mail or personal message and we will try to help you. Roger Witts Frampton Moths
p.s. There is no PY No for using a Mini-Moth sail.
|
|
|
Post by Overoptimistix on Oct 20, 2009 11:47:33 GMT
The mini-Moth is just an idea at this stage - I want my fun first ...
I have an old-style sail too (248 or 48 depending on which side you look at). My recollection was that it was a lot smaller than my other one and I thought about getting it re measured (or something) but when I got it out and put the two side by side it isn't actually that much smaller just has a bit less area at the top.
I don't expect to be afloat until next year now, so no hurry.
Zigzag, if you mean the side decks then probably.
|
|
|
Post by Overoptimistix on Nov 3, 2009 9:50:00 GMT
Arrgh, the weather has turned wet now. The existing flat tarps that I use to cover it have started leaking.
Who makes good covers for a Moth? preferably breathable so that she can dry out properly.
Also, the old rubber pads to hold the centreboard have perished / vanished. What can I use to replace them? Are there better ways of adjusting the plate?
dan
|
|
|
Post by paultp on Nov 3, 2009 11:18:37 GMT
I bought a Pinnel & Bax boom up cover last year when they had 15% off and it is really good. They have 15% off again at the moment.
Re the centre board - I cut a notch out of the front and fitted a piece of clear rubber tube using a screw and washer. Tighten the screw and the tube flattens and widens to give friction on the side of the centreboard case. Works for me.
Just out of interest what did you use to replace the gunwhale as the front of mine needs doing?
Thanks Paul
|
|
|
Post by scruff871 on Nov 3, 2009 11:22:25 GMT
Dan Adding to Paul,s comments... Suggest that any cover ,breathable or not, will not cope with the current weather completely. However I guess a good boom up cover correctly tightened down with nothing touching the decks is the best way to go...provided you vent the boat occaisionally. Personally I think Banks make the best covers.We opt for PVC Nylon covers that are great but do sweat a little but if the varnish/paint job is sound you should not have any trouble. Excellent covers are also made by P&B and Speed. All are currently offering winter discounts. As for the Centreboard Brake... Brakes can be purchased from Speed ,P&B,Sailboats etc but you can make one easily.It consists of a piece of Rubber or PVC Hose about 4"long with a strap[st steel link about 3 " long will do]that has two holes to take some longish screws into the top or back edge of the Centrebaord just below the handle area.When in the boat tighten to adjust the amount of friction or brake you want. Take a look at some of the close-up pics in the Gallery section and you may be able to see a Brake in position.
|
|
|
Post by Overoptimistix on Nov 3, 2009 13:16:48 GMT
Paul,
I haven't done anything about the gunwhale yet. When I did all this 20 odd years ago, I used a half round section (but I'm not sure which wood). I think that I thinned it to go round the bows.
|
|
|
Post by paultp on Nov 3, 2009 14:09:25 GMT
Dan As for the Centreboard Brake... Brakes can be purchased from Speed ,P&B,Sailboats etc but you can make one easily.It consists of a piece of Rubber or PVC Hose about 4"long with a strap[st steel link about 3 " long will do]that has two holes to take some longish screws into the top or back edge of the Centrebaord just below the handle area.When in the boat tighten to adjust the amount of friction or brake you want. Take a look at some of the close-up pics in the Gallery section and you may be able to see a Brake in position. That's a far more sensible suggestion than mine as mine is only adjustable with the centre board fully down! However (Roger will back me up here as he's seen my centre board) if I had fitted mine like that, the centreboard would need to be fully down before the brake met the slot! ;D P.S. Cutting it down this winter (so probably ordering a new one next season!)
|
|
|
Post by pegasus on Nov 3, 2009 20:32:17 GMT
A few years ago a restored a 1971 Pegasus. For the gunwhale I made up a laminate from pine and hardwood strips sourced from a local timber merchant. A friend shaped the piece that was nearest to the hull. Each strip individually attached to the boat, the first using loads of sealant. The other layers were then glued and fixed into position so they took the shape of the hull. It took ages to do as each layer had to be cut, glued and fastened separately. The outer layer was then varnished to protect it. Pictures of the finished result here www.flickr.com/photos/53485440@N00/40945089/in/set-949405/ I bought a boom up cover from Rain and Sun earlier this year. It seems all ok at the moment! Simon
|
|
|
Post by Overoptimistix on Nov 5, 2009 9:47:56 GMT
I listened to all your suggestions and have now ordered one from SailRegister. I'm happy with the one for my Mirror and thought that I'd get another.
Laminating is a good suggestion Simon - I like the stripy effect on your pegasus. It really depends on how wide you need it to be.
Wide gunwales used to be in fashion and I was always disappointed that mine didn't have them. Is there any benefit other than cosmetic one way or the other?
|
|
|
Post by enigma on Nov 5, 2009 12:05:35 GMT
When you eventually succumb to arthritis it gives you something to lift the boat without strain on yer fingers,also if your really after the ultimate performance it gives you another inch or so to hike out!It is great hearing your progress it make me feel ashamed that I am not doing all my own updates.Keep it up . Robin
|
|
|
Post by Overoptimistix on Nov 30, 2009 9:53:05 GMT
It's still a long way off, but can anyone help me sort out my cunningham controls.
I have two booms - the original 2"x1" wooden one with 2:1 outhaul and 2:1 cunningham on it and an aluminium one that is much lighter but has only a 4:1 outhaul.
I guess my options are to screw some fittings to the boom, or bring the control down to the foredeck. Are there any good deck arrangements?
thanks
|
|
|
Post by Meat Pie ... on Nov 30, 2009 11:20:00 GMT
Almost certainly to drop the controls down to deck level with a couple of blocks secured on the mast step and lead back is probably the best way to go.... I have some pics that I could send you that may help. If you send me a peronal message with your e-mail details I will forward them. Roger Witts
|
|
|
Post by Overoptimistix on Nov 30, 2009 12:37:40 GMT
Roger,
I think that I can guess how to fix a couple of blocks near the mast and lead back to cleats by the centre board. The obvious way would give 2:1 and I can practice my long splice to give a continuous loop ...
dan
|
|